We made a decision on Tuesday that we wanted to get the hell out of Dodge for at least a day and see something as we have been here, everywhere else as well, over a month and have yet to trek outside the environs of Ramstein. Many of us, including myself, have been here hundreds of times in our careers and we've seen a lot of the places we've been, but no matter how many times you see some places you find yourself drawn to return. The military cemetaries are without a doubt some of those places.
I want to get off my chest something that hit me the moment I saw the rows of white granite crosses. Many Americans complain excessively about everything most days of their lives. I have seen the avarice, arrogance, pettiness, selfishness, of other nations I have visited, but to be fair I don't live there for a significant length of time so I may be witnessing behavior peculiar to that location or at that point in time. As for my observations of Americans I believe these observations to be dead on accurate and will stand by them under any circumstances.
As I stated, Americans are a bunch of whiners. Take your pick. Their taxed too much, they don't have enough time off, they should be getting paid more, their possessions should be bigger and better than everyone else's. Their kids are smarter and should be protected over other's children, they stick their noses in everyone's business, but get upset when someone inquires into their own misguided behavior. To these Americans I say, "Shut the FUCK UP!!!!!" Sure all humans complain about the human condition. We all have our own needs according to Maslow and we do our damndest to fullfill those needs. Often we do it forsaking other's needs and rights. I could say so much more, but it wouldn't dignify the details I am about to tell you. Suffice to say if you are an American who lives, as most do, a comfortable life replete with technological devices, cozy shelter, more food than you really should be eating and lots of time to pursue happiness, STOP and think about those who made it possible and what life would be like without their sacrifice.
It is emotional for me to think of all the young Americans who gave their lives to stop Tyranny. Look it up in the dictionary if your unsure whether it applies to World War I and II. Hitler was a despot. By the time he took his own life he had killed 10 million people alone for their beliefs and ethnicities not to mention all of the other collateral victims. Had the Allies not banded together to stop the Axis powers we would live in a different world today. One I am sure even the most ignorant among us would quickly recognize as a terrible world to live in. I want to be clear before I continue. America is not the only allied nation to experience tragic loss on an enormous scale. All of the allied nations paid a terrible price for freedom; it is evident by the over 17 cemetaries in Europe that contain the war dead of all allied nations. My wife is Canadian and she once asked me, "Really, what did Canada ever do?" My answer is they lost more soldiers per capita than any other allied nation engaged in World War II. I am not promoting the suffering of any one nation over another, I just don't want Americans to keep thinking we could have whipped Adolf Hitler and the largest, most advanced military machine the world had ever seen to that point, ALONE.
The cemetary at Luxembourg was set aside by the very grateful nation of Luxembourg and it is both haunting and extraordinarily beautiful. I will let the pictures I have posted on Picasa speak to that and I will tell you something about the cemetary. It was established during the campaign for the Ardennes in December of 1944. Many of you may have heard of the Battle of the Bulge; it was Hitler's last big attempt to stop the Normandy invaders from reaching the fatherland. over 81,000 Americans were either killed, wounded, or missing in action as a result of the battle which took place from December 16th to January 25th. That's right. A little over one month of brutal combat!!! 5076 Americans are buried here, their passing marked by stark white granite crosses.
Pennsylvania, Ohio, Texas, New Jersey, Oklahoma, New York, California..........18 years of age...19, 22, some about to turn 20. 440th bomber group; Easy Company,506th Parachute Infantry Regiment, 101st Airborne Battalion (Band of Brothers, Currahea!!!). 4th Infantry Division. Infantrymen, flight engineers, tank drivers, cooks, supply clerks, medics. Husbands, fathers, brothers, sons, daughters, sisters. They all lie here in solitude, together for eternity as witnesses to the greatest cause humanity had ever seen. Many came willingly and gave selflessly.
Two among them won the Congressional Medal of Honor. It is the highest honor that can be bestowed on a United States servicemember for selfless acts of heroism. I will tell you of their selfless acts of bravery.
Day G. Turner, US infantryman. He fought off a German offensive while holed up in a house with his squad. He repulsed numerous attacks with his own weapons until he ran out of ammo and then used German weapons. At times the fighting was so intense as German soldier breached the house. He fought them room to room, hand to hand, and repulsed them for several hours. In the end the Germans surrendered not knowing that his squad only had three healthy members left (the other nine were either dead or severely wounded). He was killed one month later and never knew that he had been awarded the Medal of Honor.
William D. McGee, US combat medic. McGee's unit was engaged in heavy fighting when several members of his platoon entered a minefield. With complete disregard to his personal safety (which is always a prerequisite for the MOH) he entered the minefield twice carrying out the wounded to safety. On his third trip he stepped on a mine and was unable to get out because of the severity of the wounds. Knowing that it meant certain death, he admonished members of his platoon not to enter the minefield to save him because he knew it would mean that others would be wounded and killed. I get choked up thinking about the kind of love for your teammates, and the inner strength and courage you must have to consign yourself to certain death. Remember my post on heroes? These two are perfect examples. Both displayed a willingness to give of themselves so completely so that others would live. I just wish the thousands of troops who exhibited this behavior all got this medal, but the world is cruel. Besides non of the MOH recipients ever did it for the medal, it was truly a selfless act.
What makes this cemetary special, as does all of the allied cemetaries on foreign soil, is that it has been given to America in perpetuity, without cost whatsover, by the people of Luxembourg. It is maintained by the American Battlefields and Monuments Commission. The head of the cemetary gave us a personal tour and told us that the people of Luxembourg give a great deal of time, money, and manpower to keep this cemetary immaculate. He said they do so out of a feeling of gratitude to the American nation and to the loved ones of these 5076 souls who gave their lives to liberate Luxembourg. Those who come do so out of love and admiration and a deep feeling of thanks. Lest you think that this is overexaggerated, you should come and visit. The people of Luxembourg will welcome you with open arms and they showed me respect knowing that I was an American servicemember even though I did not liberate them. It feels a little uncomfortable, like I am an imposter, but they are so gracious and they know that if it ever came to something like that again, we would once again answer the call. It makes me feel good and embarrassed at the same time. We have squandered our good name, and good fortunes, recently, but no matter because they love us just the same.
As proof of this gratitude I will tell you about the burial of the most famous American General of World War II, and undoubtedly of all American Generals, General George S. Patton, Commander, 3rd Army, European Theater. He fought Rommel in North Africa, liberated Rome, and fought in Normandy. He broke through the German lines at the Bulge and beat back the famed crack Panzer Grenadiers in the Ardennes liberating Belgium. He was killed in an automobile accident on December 21, 1945. It was his wish that he be buried among his men. General Dwight D. Eisenhower granted this wish and he was buried, literally, between two of his men with the same plain cross. What happened next is crazy. So many people from Luxembourg and Belgium came to visit his gravesite that it got out of hand. They were trampling the cemetary. The Duchess of Luxembourg decided that he would be reinterred in the Cathedral in Luxembourg city. Knowing Patton would have had a fit, they eventually agreed that he would be buried at the head of his troops in his own spot overlooking the cemetary. He rests their today.
I have several posts to make today about my trip to Bastogne as well as my journey to the German military cemetary located less than two miles east of the American cemetary, but that itself is a whole blog post of observations. I leave you with this quote from a dedication by Dwight D. Eisenhower, Supreme Allied Commander at Saint Paul's Cathedral in London. This quote is engraved on the stone walk, just ahead of Patton's grave.
ALL WHO SHALL HEREAFTER LIVE IN FREEDOM
WILL BE HERE REMINDED THAT TO THESE MEN
AND THEIR COMRADES WE OWE A DEBT TO
BE PAID WITH GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF THEIR SACRIFICE AND
WITH THE HIGH RESOLVE THAT
THE CAUSE FOR WHICH THEY DIED SHALL LIVE ETERNALLY.
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